mercredi 20 juin 2012

Central Vietnam - Hoi An to Hue

Avec deux semaines de vélos dans les jambes, il était temps de faire une pause en atteignant le centre du pays. On ne pouvait mieux tomber qu’à Hoi An, ancien port important du pays, réputé maintenant pour sa cuisine, ses nombreux restaurants et la douceur de vivre qui y règne.

Le centre ville, protégé par l’Unesco, rassemble de façon harmonieuse de nombreuses villas coloniales, des temples, pagodes et maisons mélangeant les styles vietnamiens, chinois et japonais. On parcoure tranquillement les rues piétonnes en admirant les façades colorées de jaunes et les milliers de tuiles concaves et convexes couvrant les bâtiments.

After the strenuous day in the central highlands, the medieval-looking city of Hoi An with an infinite choice of restaurants and cafes was welcomed break. Once Vietnam’s most cosmopolitan port, Hoi An is now one of the main tourist destinations in Vietnam. Colonial villas, temples, pagodas and ancient buildings with both Chinese and Japanese influences fill the UNESCO protected pedestrian lanes in the Old Town.











Au soir, les centaines de lanternes viennent illuminer le centre ancien et la promenade le long de l’eau ou l’on s’assied pour manger un délicieux Cao Lao, une salade de nouilles au porc et aux herbes.

In the evenings the beautiful yellow coloured facades are illuminated with colorfu lanterns, creating a nice atmosphere and inviting you to dine at one of the many stalls along the river. One of our favorite dishes was Cao Lao, a delicious dish of noodles, porc and fresh herbs.

Hoi An is also famous for its tailored clothes. The city is packed with boutiques and tailors, all offering the same things or as the locals like to say “same same but different”. On our arrival I was determined not to give in the temptation on getting some clothes made, but my good intentions were quickly thrown out of the window. By the time we left Hoi An we had a large parcel in the post, waiting for our return…










Assis en terrasse avec les meilleurs pains au chocolat, glaces et autres pâtisseries du voyage, difficile de bouger de son siège. L’endroit est d’ailleurs idéal pour s’essayer a la cuisine locale et la préparation de plats comme les calamars à la citronnelle ou le poulet caramélisé.

On parcoure quand même les villages de campagne voisins, spécialisés entre autre dans la poterie

Our favorite way to pass time was to sit on a terrace and eating warm “pain au chocolat” or ice cream while people watching. It was the ideal place to learn some more about the local cuisine so we treated our selves to another cooking class, caramelized chicken, fish in banana leave and squid with lemon grass and chili were on the menu this time.

As it was very easy to do very little, it even took us a few days before we headed out of the city to explore the back roads of the surrounding villages famous for its pottery, the nearby island or the beach.






La route remontant vers Hue longeant cote offre de nombreux panoramas sur la mer et sur la vie rurale de la région.

Le principal intérêt de Hue est sa citadelle, construite tout au long du 19 ème siècle alors que la ville était encore la capitale impériale du pays. En grande partie détruite pendant la guerre, elle rassemble encore quelques pavillons bien restaures.

The road to Hue was a pleasant ride along the coastline with stunning views over the sea and the rural countryside.

The principle attraction in Hue is the citadel, built between 1804. The  2m thick and 10km long walls protect the imperial enclosure which basically consists of a citadel within a citadel. Although today only a fraction of the original construction is left (most of it has been bombed during the war with the French and the Americans) it is still an impressive site with some beautiful pavilions. 













A la sortie d’un supermarché, nous faisons un peu par hasard la rencontre avec une famille vietnamienne. Apres quelques minutes de discussions, Tranh, le père de famille, nous invite a passer la soirée avec eux pour  un barbecue. Nous acceptons avec plaisir cette proposition assez inattendue et partageons de très bons moments chez eux le lendemain, entre la préparation du repas, assis par terre dans la cuisine, la cuisson dans sa petite cour ou la partie de billard tard dans la soirée…

Leaving a supermarket one day, we randomly got chatting with a Vietnamese family. After a few minutes, Tran, the father, invited us spontaneously to join him and his family for dinner the following day. We happily accepted his kind offer and spent some memorable moments together preparing the meal on the kitchen floor and cooking in his little courtyard. After a delicious dinner he took us to a local bar to play pool and drink beers (he seemed to be rather proud of the amount of beers he could drink in a day - a good enough reason for us not to get back on the bike with him later on). Unfortunate for him the poor lad quickly realized that we were not exaggerating when we told him that unlike most Vietnamese we are really rubbish at pool! 


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